Day 6
Still in search of some native wildlife, we decided to be more pragmatic. Even though it was difficult to find and we had to pass the verbal police polygraph at a roadblock, we found the Macaw Santuary at El Manantial,
nested in the secluded rolling sugarcane fields north of Puntarenas. What a gem this place was.
When we pulled up to the gate it was chained shut with a small sign that said, “Abierto.” Someone did come to let us in, but we were the only ones there for the entire morning. A forty-five minute tour ended up being a two hour
private tour. Our young guide Alicia was excellent.
A few years ago the Costa Rican government made it illegal to own wild animals and endangered birds (unless by special exception permit). People formed a huge line down the road to voluntarily surrender their birds to the
sanctuary. Can you imagine?
Our guide showed us a pile of small cages confiscated from exotic animal poachers who sneak into the sanctuary at night. It happened again the night before.
In their efforts to de-socialize the birds, we were instructed not to talk to the animals, more of an anti-Dr. Doolittle philosophy. One of the criteria for being released into the wild is making sure the bird will not ask for a cup of coffee from a passing stranger. Here, they teach the tame how to live wild again.
The sanctuary also has a few displaced mammals such as Baird´s Tapir, Collared Peccary, Marmoset and Howler Monkeys, even three Jaguars. The Two and Three-toes Sloth are wild, as are the Howler Monkeys and many
of the birds flying about. We caught a glimpse of a snoozing sloth up in the canopy.
The sanctuary’s main focus is to increase the numbers of two of Costa Rica’s endangered species the Scarlet and Great Green Macaw. There are two huge circular enclosures built for the adult birds. There are over 80 Scarlet
Macaws and about 40 Great Greens.
At one point we got to see dozens of the Scarlet Macaws flying in groups. It was spectacular with all their colorful wings expanded. Our tour guide said they rarely do that with people present.
The Great Green Macaw is the larger species of the two and the most endangered. It’s estimated that only forty mating pairs exist. One of the goals is to help these monogamous birds find mates for life (like macawmatch.com), and then give them a low stress, comfortable surrounding in which to breed. Both individuals of a pair need to qualify for release and they are always set free together.
Winding through the park, with only the birds and monkey chatter was truly magical. Our guide was relaxed (since there was no one else in the park) and answered all of our questions at great length. I would recommend this experience to anyone who wants to see these magnificent birds and the great efforts being made to protect them.
After bird paradise, we drove down to the port at Puntarenas. On the tip of the peninsula we ate the daily catch in a breezy restaurant just off of the water. Puntarenas has a huge beach, and on this Sunday afternoon it was full of
families swimming, picnicing, snoozing. There were many open air restaurants and shops. The mood was relaxed and family centered.
We got back to our town just in time for a sunset.
