Day 13, Summer in Asia ~ Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Angkor Wat, the City of Temples, is the largest religious monument in the world, stretching over 248 square miles. The complex of Hindu temples was originally built in the early 12th century in the capital of the Khmer Empire, Yasadharapura. Later, the structures were used as Buddhist temples. More than two million people a year flock to this UNESCO World Heritage site to see these unique buildings, mainly adorned with Hindu stories and characters. UNESCO needs a new category called Otherfreakingworldly, which Angkor Wat could anchor.
Although it’s an option, we didn’t wake up early enough to see the sunrise over the temples. Instead, we had breakfast on the rooftop and left at 8 am with our driver Ny. He drove us from the airport on our first day and offered to tuk us to the temples. He arrived with fancy blue ruffled seat covers on his tuk. We felt rather special. Stowed under the seat was a cooler with cold waters for us. When we were in the temples, he pulled out his little tuk hammock and had a little rest. I want one for my car.
There is a dress code when visiting the temples, shoulders and knees must be covered. We also took rain jackets since it’s rainy season, but we didn’t end up using them.
Even though it’s easy to be read-up on a site you’re visiting, nothing we read prepared us for the vastness and volume of temples we would see. Even seeing it in person, it was difficult to absorb this extraordinary collection of unusual ancient structures and their unique hieroglyphics. If I had to describe these temples to young kids, I’d say they were like drip castles, made with dark volcanic sand, with pretty etchings and big round smiling rock faces everywhere.
After seeing five of the 45 temples, we understand why they offer three and seven day passes. It would take weeks to properly explore all the temples. We all decided that this is a place we need to return and maybe stay for a minimum of a few weeks. Fascinating.
When we realized the distance between temples, I was glad we opted for a tuk to take us around and didn’t do the bicycle option. In the hot sun it was enough to tour the temples, and return to Ny, ice cold waters, and the breezy tuk rides. Really the best way to get around the temple maze.
In the ticket building there are big Monk warnings signs: Do not take pictures of the monks without their permission and if you are a woman, do not touch or stand close to the monks. This raised two questions for me. 1) I question why our entire female gender is responsible for creating a larger personal space bubble in response to their life choices. If I have decided to swear off meat, it’s up to me to find and eat vegetables, not try to force all the meat to keep a safe distance from me. 2) This also made me wonder if it is ok for men to touch the monks–not in a creepy way, but in a friendly tourist way? Like is it ok for Paul and a monk to mutually rub each other’s bald heads in mutual admiration? Two questions I may never have answered. Another part of me hears all that and says, their ancient religious ruins, their rules.
I’m sure it’s politically incorrect in numerous ways, but I have a fascination with monks. It started when I was just a kid and my Japanese dad hosted 5 Buddhist monks for the Continental Walk in 1976. They each played the drums, had low vibrating chanting voices, flowy orange robes, had the same oval shaped burn on their upper biceps, and had one teeny bag a piece. Badass religious dudes.
We stopped along the tuk ride to see some monks taking selfies with the wild monkeys. We stopped for the monkeys, the monks were a bonus. While I didn’t touch a monk or a monkey, like the signs warned, I do admit that I took a covert photo of a monk and monkey. Couldn’t help myself. Then kier took a pic of the actual monkeys.
As if a day of ancient volcanic sand drip castles wasn’t enough, on the tuk ride home we passed a park by the lake. It wasn’t unique to use that they were picnickers everywhere, but it was because they all use hammocks instead of chairs. Cute, portable little hammocks, some that had netting over the top to keep babies in, bugs out, or both. Never seen so many hammocks in one place, people relaxing everywhere, swinging, talking, munching. I wanted to run over and join in.
Back at the hotel we had some yummy lunch, played some pool, and then some of us fell asleep at 4 pm and woke up in the morning. A spectacular day.