When we first went to Guatemala in 2007, we had no idea we would end up there for more than three years, total. Our initial motivation was to introduce the girls to another culture, and have them learn some Spanish. It evolved into something so much more.

Top 10 Experiences Living in Guatemala.

1. Lake Atitlan.We chose a small town called Panajachel, on the lake (considered by many to be the most beautiful lake on Earth) surrounded by three dormant volcanos. When I talked to my sister, who has traveled extensively in Central America, and explained what our objectives were, she suggested Pana. There is a small expat community, large enough to support an English school with a North American curriculum, but the Mayan culture makes it a unique cultural experience. That sounded perfect to us, and it was. The lake itself is stunning, and Pana has boats going to all the other smaller villages around the lake, so there is plenty to explore. Some hotels like Casa del Mundo cling to the side of the mountain and can only be reached by boat.

2. Climb an active volcano and experience natural disasters.

Panajachel
Tropical Storm Agatha

I know this sounds like an odd thing to put in a top ten. But our experiences with tropical storms, flooding, earthquakes, and how to survive them, were significant elements of our experience in Guatemala. The girls knew what safety steps to follow with different scenarios, which always involved looking up to check for live, downed electrical wires. Roads were often out due to landslides. Our town was once cut off from Solola, the larger neighboring town, for weeks because of a mud-slide. Tropical Storm Agatha washed out bridges, and swept away houses. We were cut off from the town and moved for a few weeks so the girls could make it to school. Bridges take years to rebuild and some are never replaced.

The active volcano Picaya had an eruption while we were in Guatemala, and shut down the city and the airport. We climbed Picaya twice, and while walking with a tour guide across a recent lava field, we got to see rivers of the molten rock. Pana has frequent earthquakes and tremors because of where it is situated. Cali once said she had to wear sunscreen to school because of the earthquakes. I didn’t understand until she said they had to take their desks out into the field away from the building, and the teachers were afraid she’d get sunburned. Nature was always reminding you who is ultimately in charge.

3. Experience the Mayan culture of today.The Mayan culture is prominent where we lived. Most of the women wear the traditional clothing. Chichicastnango is one of the best markets to see and buy the traditional Mayan textiles. We became friends with many Mayan people, who were kind, generous, and worked tirelessly. 

4. Creative Schooling

Panajachel
first day of school

Panajachel
first day of preschool at PanaKids

PanjachelBefore arriving in Panajachel I was only in contact with a person from a small English school, who gave me the name of a person we could rent a few rooms from. We were there for six months, January to June. The older two girls went to a school that followed North American curriculum, and Cali went to a private Spanish preschool next to our house in the mornings with 6 people in her class, and a public school in the afternoons with 45 students in her class. In the three years we lived in Panajachel, the girls attended private schools, public schools, and were part of alternative school start-ups. Our oldest was a part of the first graduating class (of 3 students) from an alternative school which is now well established and thriving, with over 40 students. Generally speaking the learning atmospheres are more casual, more creative, less structured. The girls learned independent study skills, participated in school plays, became fluent in Spanish, and made friends.Panajachel

5. Taking some action with NGO’s.


While living in Guatemala, we were all-in with a few Non-governmental organizations. They were Ayuda (helping street dogs, providing free clinics in the villages), Mayan Families (broad humanitarian), and Solomon’s Porch (humanitarian with house-building focus). The girls got to build houses, help World Vets with spay and neuter clinics, assist medical and dental clinics, watch dogs getting spayed on our back patio with a local vet, foster street dogs. These experiences were profoundly transformative.

Panajachel
Cali building houses

Madi inoculating and working the post-op with World Vets.

Madi inoculating at clinic

Who’s watching who?

6. Language immersion.

Our youngest was 3 when we first went, and was conversing in simple Spanish after a few days and fluent within a few weeks. Learning languages at that age is effortless, and lightning fast. Plunk ’em in. The older girls also became fluent. Knowing Spanish has been a great asset to them, especially since we have moved to South Florida. Knowing other languages is always great for wiring other parts a child’s brain, broadening their options, and expanding their personality.

7. Not taking clean water, any water, or electricity for granted.

In North America water is assumed clean, and electricity is assumed to be available. In a developing country, one develops a higher tolerance level for discomfort, and one learns not to take what we consider the basics for granted. In many countries, an effort has to be made to get clean water. Cali was in charge of drinking water and would walk down the street with a cart to provide it. We also learned to be happy without all the stuff we had at home. When you’re busy with experiences, stuff becomes more secondary. Perspective is a huge gift. Understanding you’ve been pampered and well provided for, and that not everyone is, is one step toward feeling less entitled and egocentric, and more empathetic towards others.

8. Diverse people, surprising friendships.

For a few historical reasons, Pana has attracted a bit of a hippy expat base. It was a favorite draft-dodger spot during the Vietnam war, and still attracts many people with a rebellious streak or two in them. So, in that way, I can blend. There is a concentration of unique people, perspectives, and stories galore. If you are a person who loves to hear some crazy and colorful life stories like I do, this is your goldmine. You will not believe these life histories. I kept saying I should write a book on the people of Pana. If you ask how someone found their way to Pana, you should sit down, pull up a chair and grab a large mug of something, because it’s about to get good. Our one-sentence justification for why we were in Pana hardly qualified as a story, which made us the freak-show of banality. No, I’m not running from the IRS, or a ex-husband who’s also a Mexican drug dealer. They couldn’t help warming up to us anyway. If you knew me, you’d realize this next comment is something: I made a handful of meaningful  friendships that I both enjoyed and valued. It surprised me, and felt downright decadent.

Trivia night winners

9. Artsy element.

Perhaps one of my favorite aspects of being in this particular town was the strong interest in the arts. There was an art gallery, where one of the choirs practiced, that I was part of. I went home with a large painting that I stared at every Tuesday night, made by a local artist Francisco Guzman. The Galeria was always bringing in new artists work, having showings, and other cultural events. There are always concerts, plays, and musicals being produced, small ensembles to be a part of. I was singing with three different groups. More than anything, connecting with music and art, however I am able, accesses a type of happiness in me that can only be reached through creative channels. In Pana, were enough expats who feel similarly, and are able to fund and support these events for this relatively small town. For me, this is by far, one of the most magical things happening in Pana.Panajachel

10. Joined a band.

This builds on #9, but is more personal. I was asked to sing with a local rock band. We were at the bar PanaRock every Thursday evening, and around the lake for other special events. The musicians were talented, high energy, the best on the lake, and we always had a blast. We performed in different towns around the lake. The band was a first for me, and a stupid amount of fun. I. Miss. This.

Living in Guatemala changed each of us in profound and fundamental ways. Something I can’t emphasize enough–perspective is a gigantinormous gift to your children. I watched the girls continue to grow in independence, resilience, quiet confidence, and kindness. There’s a side of me that flourished there, and I’ll be forever grateful for the marks and memories this experience left on me.

For those who are more visually inclined, I’ve put  I’ll admit its an excessive amount of photos that only a grandparent might wade through. But they capture many key memories for me, so there they are, for those who like wading.

Getaway to El Salvador with two of my lovelies.

Guatemala

our home

our family room

preschool PanaKids

Casa del Mundo

medical clinic

My doc sis being awesome.

La Posada, Santiago

Panajachel
Casa del Mundo, favorite hotel

Cali zip lining

ice cream at Saritas

La Posada, Santiago

fav bakery

my sister at El Patio

San Pedro

Holy week sawdust street carpets

fav restaurant, El Patio

Cali loves the tuks

Casa del Mundo

piñata fun

laundry delivery

guitar lessons with Marc

my birthday concert

on the bridge that got washed away

Cali at a build site

limonada con soda in tongeleles

riverbed fun

with waterbag at Educasa

School halls after carnival confetti eggs.

desk at school and drinking bag of water

Tomas her school transport

band

bridge to our side of town

Cali at preschool

building site

Pacific coast

tree climbers

They love their parades!

Madi painting the school.

street vendors

World Vet clinic

taking dogs to vet clinic

transporting dog to vet clinic

build site

Cali sifting sand for cement

mixing cement

13 pups rescued from the street.

first home

Lake Atitlan

Madi’s desk at school.

Way home along the river.

playing in the riverbed

Community effort to make a basketball court.

prepping for World Vet day

The Bambu Hotel in Santiago.

La Posada, Santiago

first house

tortillas

hammock living

choir practice

rescue pups

rescue street pups

Paul mixing cement.

Paul bringing water.